Putting on a great suit can be transformative. Helping you look and feel great — your shoulders are broader, your legs longer, and your waist a little bit trimmer.
The key to looking and feeling confident is a well-tailored suit, but unfortunately, most men don't know how to alter or tailor their clothes.
But there’s no need to worry. At Slater Menswear, we’ve covered everything you need to know with our simple and easy men’s clothing alterations guide.
Are alterations worth it?
Tailoring and alterations can completely transform your wardrobe and how you feel in your clothes.
Not only do alterations allow you to achieve the ideal fit, but it also ensures that your signature pieces can evolve with you for years to come. Whether you’ve lost weight or you’re giving a hand-me-down a new lease of life, alterations can help you look professional and put together — not to mention it’s also a cost-effective way to get your tailoring back on track.
How to alter your clothes
Altering and tailoring your clothes is simple if you know the proper steps. Below, we’ve broken down some common alterations into easy-to-understand steps.
Hemming trousers
If your trousers aren’t quite fitting right, hemming your trousers is simple and one of the most straightforward repairs you can do at home. This method of hemming is without a sewing machine.
Step 1: Remove the original hem with a seam ripper. If you’re wearing these trousers with a particular pair of dress shoes, it’s important to have these on so you can see exactly where you’ll have to take the hem up.
Step 2: Standing in front of a mirror, fold the fabric up so it sits inside of the leg. When happy, place a pin at the back of each leg; stand up, recheck the length in the mirror, and adjust as needed.
Step 3: Take the trousers off and carefully turn the pants inside out. Laying them flat, check that both of the legs are the same length and once happy, use a hem gauge to measure the distance from the edge of the fabric to the bottom of the fold. Use that measurement to fold and pin the hem around the leg — using six pins — and repeat on the other leg.
Step 4: Start to create a crease by ironing the folds. Ideally, you’ll want a 2 cm hem, so it’s best to use the hem gauge to measure this distance from the ironed hemline. Mark with a marking pencil; repeat around every inch, making a dashed line around the leg.
Step 5: Remove the pins and cut along the line, taking care to ensure that the fabric doesn’t begin to unravel. Pin back into place and then repeat on the other leg.
Step 6: Thread a needle with a single thread and knot at the end. With the trousers still inside out, begin sewing a blind hem stitch at one of the side seams. Put the needle under the folded hem, pull through and then make a zigzag stitch. Knot thread when done and repeat on the other leg. Iron down the finished hem.
Replacing a missing button
Buttons can fall off dress shirts at the drop of a hat or gradually over time. But don’t just discard the button; sew it back on so the shirt is as good as new.
If you have the original button, that’s great. If it’s misplaced, there’s no need to fear; use a button similar to the ones on the dress shirt.
Step 1: Measure out two feet of thread and cut it. Pull the thread through the eye of the needle so that both ends are even. Tie both ends of the thread together, closing the loop.
Step 2: Begin sewing by putting the needle through the back of the fabric, out through the font and through a hole in the button. Make sure the button is facing the correct way when threading.
Step 3: From here, put the needle through the diagonal buttonhole and feed the thread through the back of the shirt. Repeat this process of sewing through the diagonals multiple times.
Step 4: When about 10cm of thread is left, push the thread so it sits on the back side of the fabric. Then push the needle through, making sure not to go through the button holes again.
Step 5: Wrap the thread around the button 4-6 times and pull the thread back through to the back of the fabric. Tie a knot and cut.
Taking in a suit jacket
If you have broad shoulders with a smaller waist or you’ve lost weight, then taking in a suit jacket will transform the overall look of your suit.
Step 1: Turn your suit jacket inside out, put it on and button it to a close.
Step 2: Pin the cloth along the seams to shorten the length of the waist. Once you’re happy with the size, remove the jacket and place it on a flat surface.
Step 3: Spread the jacket out evenly, thread a needle with matching thread, and begin sewing upwards from the bottom of the side seams.
Step 4: Keep sewing until you get to the last pin, and tie the thread ends together to hold the new seams. Remove the pins.
Step 5: Press the seams of your jacket flat and reverse it so the front side is facing outwards. Try the jacket on and check for any adjustments. If necessary, unpick the stitches and start again.
4 simple tips for altering your clothes
Altering your clothes is a great way to make your look feel polished and boost your confidence. Here are four simple tips for altering your clothes at home — without the help of a tailor!
1. Know your measurements
The numbers that retailers use can differ from brand to brand, so making sure you have a list of your measurements can be invaluable.
When shopping online, look for size guides — like our ‘How To Measure’ page — and when shopping in-store, bring a measuring tape and pay attention to how a garment fits. Whether it’s a crisp white shirt or dress pants, you’ll then know the precise area you need to tailor.
2. Use the right thread
When sewing your alterations, it’s important that you use a thread that’s going to blend into the fabric — you wouldn’t use white thread for a pair of black dress pants.
Choosing a colour that matches makes the alteration more discrete. This also means that you won’t have to worry about perfectly straight stitching.
3. Lock your stitches in
To ensure that your seams don’t come apart, it’s essential that you lock your stitches in. Also known as backstitching, it’s a simple technique using the reverse direction of your sewing machine.
Backstitching helps to strengthen the seam and makes sure that the start and end of the seam do not come undone.
4. Preview before you cut
If you’re cutting the length off your garment, measure and preview the fit to ensure it will be the correct length.
Before you cut, use tailor's chalk to map out where you’ll be cutting and then use pins to highlight the changes. Try the piece on again to make sure that you’re satisfied — there’s no going back once you’ve made the first cut!
What garments can’t be altered or tailored?
While most garments can be altered, there are a few occasions where it wouldn’t be feasible to repair.
Burnt fabrics — Fabrics that have been burnt after ironing, or for any other reason, won’t be able to be repaired due to the damage to the fibres.
Large holes — Holes over 3cm in circumference are difficult to fix without being able to take extra fabric from elsewhere to cover.
Fibres that have been exposed to acid or alkaline — Any fibres that have been exposed to acid to alkaline and demonstrate the severe weakening of the fibres can not be tailored.
Long tears — Any long tears that don’t follow the seam usually aren’t fixable. However, these can sometimes be altered depending on the severity.
What should you do if you don’t know how to tailor or alter your clothes?
At Slater Menswear, we want you to look and feel your best every time you wear a suit.
That’s why we offer a Free Alterations Service to all our customers so you can get the right style, shape and fit every time. Our in-store alteration service is offered at the point of purchase or within 28 days of ordering your suit online.
Our expert team of in-house tailors and seamstresses will ensure that your garment is altered to your fit.
Altering your clothes with Slater Menswear
Now that you know how to alter some of the key items in your wardrobe, it’s time to put your newfound knowledge to the test. If you’re not feeling so confident, try our Free Alterations Service, available in all our stores nationwide.
Discover our range of suits, or head over style inspiration page for expert fashion advice and more.