If there’s one piece of clothing that can set you apart from the rest and solidify your stance as a well-dressed gent, it’s the humble waistcoat.
Once mastered, the waistcoat can add an entirely new dimension to your appearance and becomes more than just an accessory. But, how exactly can you accomplish this?
Here at Slater Menswear, our experts have put together their top tips to help you get to get maximum mileage out of your waistcoat, as well as learn its styling rules and the best way to add one to your wardrobe.
How should a waistcoat fit?
As with all tailoring, you want to make sure that your waistcoat fits perfectly to your frame. A waistcoat should sit close to your body, but not too close that it feels restrictive — you want to be able to move without it gaping, after all.
The straps of the waistcoat should sit flat on your shoulders and not lift up if you were to move your arms. It shouldn’t pull at the back fabric or at the buttons and should be long enough to cover your trouser waistband. If you’re looking for a better fit, most waistcoats have a strap at the back that you can adjust to help it fit better.
The Do’s
Do: Wear your waistcoat as part of a three-piece suit
Three Piece Suits — From £99
The primary function of a waistcoat is to provide both formality and a sense of depth to your outfit. The best way to wear a waistcoat is beneath a suit jacket as part of a three-piece suit as it’ll help to make you look refined and put together.
No matter whether it’s for a wedding or for work, waistcoats must always be worn as part of a three-piece suit.
Do: Consider the fabric
Fellini Tailored Fit Linen Waistcoat — £39
When it comes to picking your waistcoat, you need to think about the fabric — especially when wearing one with a suit.
Essentially, you want your waistcoat to do one of two things. Either match perfectly to the material of the suit or make it clear that you’re intentionally using your waistcoat to create contrast in your outfit by adding different materials, like tweed.
If you’re wanting to have a more uniform appearance, stick with a single fabric.
Do: Go for a double-breasted styling
Waistcoats— From £25
If you want to smarten up your appearance, then look no further than a double-breasted waistcoat. These waistcoats can create an interesting interplay in the space between a shirt and a single-breasted jacket and are much better reserved for more formal occasions.
Do: Leave the last button unbuttoned
When wearing a waistcoat, always leave the bottom button open. Although this tradition dates back to King Edward VII, an unbuttoned waistcoat helps to streamline your look and prevents wrinkles and pulling when you lift up your arms.
It also prevents the buttons from popping and helps to protect the shape of your waistcoat, allowing you to sit and stand more comfortably.
The Don’ts
Don’t: Wear a waistcoat over a t-shirt
Waistcoats aren’t designed to be worn casually, and they’re certainly not to be worn with a t-shirt as it’s a serious fashion faux pas.
Most waistcoats are too short and it will only create an awkward appearance with a t-shirt underneath.
Don’t: Use excessive heat
Whether it’s from a clothing iron, the washing machine or a dryer, exposing your waistcoat to excessive heat can cause irreparable damage.
When exposed to heat, your waistcoat may also shrink in size. When washing your waistcoat, make sure that you use a cold-water setting to avoid shrinkage and let it air dry if possible. If your waistcoat must be ironed, set it to the lowest heat temperature and don’t apply too much force.
Don’t: Mix and match patterns
While it’s always encouraged to experiment with pattern and colour, it’s important not to go overboard. Garish and contrasting patterns will make you stand out and draw attention to any ill-fitting waistcoat and any marks or creases.
Try adding a brightly coloured pocket square, tie or bowtie to keep your palette classic and refined.
Learn more about how to perfectly match your shirt, suit and tie with our guide.
Where to wear a waistcoat
There are so many ways that you can wear a waistcoat. Whether this is for a casual situation, formal occasion or black-tie event.
How to wear a waistcoat casually
Chinos — From £20
If you’re opting to wear a waistcoat in a casual situation, you’ll want to avoid shiny fabrics and matching colours; they usually work better for formal events.
Instead, choose a textured look that you can easily pair with chinos and a laid-back shirt. For an added edge that still looks dapper, leaves the top button of your shirt unbuttoned.
How to wear a waistcoat formally
Three Piece Suits — From £99
For more formal events, it’s best to opt for a single-breasted waistcoat style in a silk-blend fabric. This adds an extra layer of formality to your outfit without it being too obvious.
Don’t be afraid to experiment with colour. Navy and grey are traditional, but pops of olive greens or wine red can really turn heads.
How to wear a waistcoat to a black-tie event
Dinner Suits — From £79
If you’re heading to a black-tie event, your suit will need a little more care and thought — even more so than what you’d expect at a formal occasion.
The dress code for black tie events doesn’t leave a lot of wiggle room for personality, so it’s often best to not try anything too risque. Pair your classic waistcoat with a matching dinner suit jacket and trousers. Or alternatively, a horseshoe waistcoat with a dinner jacket and bowtie is a match made in heaven.
How to style a waistcoat with Slater Menswear
Styling a waistcoat needn’t be a challenge, and now you know the do’s and don’ts of waistcoats, it’s time to put your newfound knowledge to the test.
Shop our wide range of waistcoats to find everything you need. If you’re looking for some extra guidance, head over to our style inspiration hub for more expert fashion advice.